Grilled Cheese

We got an early start on the Kancamagus Highway and began the 10 miles of climbing to the top of the pass. It was cooler in the morning and it made the riding much easier. The first six miles or so were very gradual and we stopped off at a campground to refill our water bottles. The final four kicked in steepness, but still manageable, and we slowly worked our way up the road to the tallest point of our trip so far, 2,855 feet. The scenery on the descent was absolutely incredible. Enormous, looming mountains, wide vistas of massive forests, and sheer faces stretching out in front of us. We descended down into the town of Lincoln, New Hampshire and passed the Loon Mountain Ski Resort and their summer time zip line.

Rach and I were nearly swallowed up by the McDonald's we took a break at. By this point it was hot and sweaty but inside there was air conditioning and smoothies. We reluctantly threw a leg over our bikes and continued. More climbing, this time steep. Our road wandered up along the Lost River and I went ahead on a section. I stopped at a false summit and it was taking quite a while for Rach to join. Eventually, I thought something was amiss and descended back down a section to find Rach with a destroyed rear tire. That wasn't so bad - it was time for a replacement, but there were a variety of tube shenanigans I won't elaborate on here. Rach got her bike back together, we completed the climb, and began descending toward North Haverhill. When we got into town and tracked down the bike shop we were planning to go to we found it was by appointment only! Bogus. At this point we had already ridden 54 miles but there weren't any good camping options for another 15 miles or so. We pedaled on again to Orford and the Pastures campground for a total 69 mile jaunt. During the last stretch, we were TIRED.

With a new morning to freshen our perspectives we left Orford and continued through beautiful, valley farm lands. But it was heating up quick. Today the temperature ratcheted up to what I would call face-melting hot. Early in the day we rolled across the Vermont border and had a friendly welcome from two older ladies taking a walk. We spent an ungodly amount of money at mini-marts on cold drinks. There were more covered bridges and stunning, rolling fields. Lots more climbing today, and some of it was very steep. By the mid-afternoon we were pushing to get to a bike shop in Rochester that closed at 6. We rode past a series of beautiful, mountain rivers and I was thinking unkind thoughts about the people sitting in inner tubes drinking beer while the asphalt radiated heat and broiled my legs while the sun sizzled my brain. Oh sweet Aunt Jemima it was hot! Eventually I could take it no further, we ditched our bikes at the side of the road, scrambled down the banks, I hitched up my bike shorts and bathed in the cool, refreshing waters of the White River. It was glorious!

We rallied for the final few miles to Rochester, Vermont and we were handsomely rewarded for our efforts. We found the bike shop which is in an incredible, rambling old house chock with history. They have a drawbridge from the repair area which is lowered and raised with chain and various old bike parts. When it's time to test ride they ride out of the house and down the ramp. The owner Dune was incredibly friendly and helpful. Rach got a new tire and I was able to install a bottom bracket spacer to remedy a scraping issue with my chain that was driving me batty. And we were invited to camp in the back yard! We had a final dip in the river before meandering over to the local park for a free concert by a reggae jam band. Dinner was at a tavern just across the green and we've now returned to our tent for the night. Unfortunately, we also discovered Rach's rear rack has a crack. This shop didn't have quite the right replacement but we have high hopes for one tomorrow in Middlebury.

PS Rach found a tick in her armpit and dug it out.

Some good views today

We made it!

After a fun descent

Vermont loves covered bridges

Village store in Vermont

Mike got a new book from this free library

We swam in this river twice