Fair Haven, NY

The rain absolutely pelted down two nights ago. Thank goodness it was overnight when we were snug as a bug in a rug in a sleeping bag. We said adios to the throngs at the Old Forge Camping Resort and hit the road. (The place is owned by the same people who have a huge water park down the road. They run a private shuttle there in an old blue school bus.)

We drifted out of the Adirondacks and the mountains that have besieged our lungs and legs. Early in the morning we rode a section on the Booneville road that defied time and motion. There were long disused cabins here and I imagined young families visiting in the 1960's, making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on Wonder bread for their children, arriving in lumbering station wagons paneled with wood. We searched for a place to take a break but the road had shed any homes or buildings at this point and stretched on for miles without distinction, pine trees on either side all exactly the same height. The asphalt seemed to be a treadmill and I thought the forest may have swallowed us up into some nether-place beyond human comprehension. (I didn't sleep well the night before.)

Eventually we emerged into farmland and what I call "silo and red barn" country. Here the fields undulate with corn and green grass shimmers together in the breeze. It was also Amish country and we saw a young woman driving a horse and buggy and young men in the fields driving a horse-drawn plow contraption. They have farm stands at the side of the road but "No sales on Sunday."

Last night we wild camped in New York state forest just outside a small town called Redfield near the Salmon River Reservoir. In bike travel all debts are paid in one form or another. Motels are exceedingly easy and cost plenty of money. Camping is generally affordable but labor is paid in setting up your tent or long walks to the bathroom. "Dispersed" camping is free but requires hoofing it through the brush and contending with bugs thriving in their natural habitat. Our spot was exceedingly peaceful though, and birds chirping this morning told us it was time to start the day.

Other notables include: A dog that ran out into the road chasing us but didn't catch us. Rach broke a tent stake using her ultra legs. Lots of people smoke around here - I thought we were collectively past that. Rach's new rear rack is working great. I found Rach a pair of grey socks on the side of the road. I always look out for road finds.

We're just at the very edge of Lake Ontario but haven't caught a glimpse of it yet. Next major destination: Niagara Falls.

Yesterday's ride: 65 miles
Today's: 61 miles

Lots of these around

Last night's campsite

Nature reclaims

Rach said she would swim in this swamp lake for $1000

Ice cream in Fair Haven. Sprinkles!